Before You Start
Difficulty: Intermediate
Typical tools and parts: the correct Allen key for the caliper bolts, needle-nose pliers if your pad pin uses a retaining clip, a non-metallic piston tool for hydraulic calipers, disc-brake cleaner, clean gloves, and replacement pads that match the original shape.
Brake-system difference: JOFEN T10 uses front and rear hydraulic brakes. JOFEN T6 uses front and rear mechanical disc brakes. The pad-removal sequence is similar, but piston reset and final adjustment are different. The photos below show a T6-style mechanical caliper; T10 hydraulic hardware may look different.
Turn the scooter off, unplug the charger and support it securely. Let the brake cool. Keep oil, grease and lubricant away from the rotor and pad surfaces. Do not squeeze a hydraulic brake lever while the caliper or pads are removed.
Step 1
Confirm the Pads and Prepare the Scooter
Inspect the original caliper and compare the replacement pads before removing anything. Pad shape, pin position and spring style must match.
Replace the pads when friction material is very thin, wear is uneven, braking distance has increased, or scraping continues after correct adjustment. A bent rotor, leaking hydraulic hose or damaged caliper requires separate repair.
Photograph the caliper, washers and cable or hose routing so each part can return to the same position.
Step 2
Remove the Caliper and Pad Retainer
Loosen and remove the two caliper mounting bolts while supporting the caliper. Lift it away from the rotor without pulling the cable or hydraulic hose.
Remove the pad-retaining clip, wire or screw, then slide out the pad pin. Retainer designs vary, so note the original direction and order.
Hang or support the caliper. Never let it dangle from the cable or hose, and do not twist a hydraulic line.
Step 3
Remove the Old Pads and Fit the New Pads
Remove the old pads and spring. Keep the friction surfaces of the new pads clean and face them inward toward the brake disc.
T10 hydraulic brake: gently press the caliper pistons fully and evenly back into the caliper with a clean non-metallic tool before installing the thicker new pads. Stop if a piston is seized or brake fluid appears.
T6 mechanical brake: back off the pad adjuster or cable tension only as much as needed to create clearance.
Install the new pads and spring in the original orientation, then refit the pin and its safety retainer.
Step 4
Position the Caliper Over the Rotor
Guide the rotor between the new pads without forcing or bending it. Confirm that both pads are fully seated and the retaining hardware is locked.
Install the caliper mounting bolts finger-tight so the caliper can still move sideways for alignment.
Check that the rotor is reasonably centered in the caliper opening. If the rotor is visibly bent, replace or professionally true it before continuing.
Step 5
Center and Secure the Caliper
T10 hydraulic brake: squeeze and hold the brake lever to center the caliper over the rotor. Tighten the two mounting bolts alternately, release the lever and check clearance.
T6 mechanical brake: set the fixed pad close to the rotor without contact, align the caliper body, then set cable tension so the moving pad engages firmly while the released wheel still turns freely.
Use the fastener torque specified for your exact caliper. Do not over-tighten the mounting bolts.
Step 6
Check for Rubbing and Bed In the Pads
Spin the wheel by hand and listen for continuous rubbing. If rubbing remains, loosen the mounting bolts slightly, shift the caliper by a very small amount and repeat the alignment.
Squeeze and release the lever several times. The lever should build consistent resistance and the wheel should release after braking.
Complete several gentle stops at walking speed in a clear, dry area. New pads need a short bedding-in period; avoid high speed or steep descents until braking is stable and predictable.
Final Safety Check
Before normal riding, confirm all of the following:
• The pads and spring are fully seated and the retaining clip or screw is secure.
• Both caliper mounting bolts are secure.
• The rotor sits between the pads and is not visibly bent.
• The wheel turns without strong resistance or continuous rubbing.
• The lever engages consistently and returns normally.
• The scooter stops straight and reliably during a low-speed test.
Do not ride if a hydraulic brake leaks, the lever pulls to the handlebar, a piston will not retract, the rotor is cracked or badly bent, or the caliper cannot be secured. Contact JOFEN support or a qualified brake technician.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are the T10 and T6 brake pads installed in exactly the same way?
No. The T10 uses hydraulic calipers and normally requires the pistons to be pressed back before new pads are installed. The T6 uses mechanical calipers and may require pad-position and cable-tension adjustment. Always match the replacement pads and procedure to the installed caliper.
Why does the brake rub after I install new pads?
New pads are thicker, so a caliper that is slightly off-center can rub. Confirm the pistons or adjusters are reset, keep the mounting bolts slightly loose, center the caliper and then tighten the bolts alternately.
Can I touch or lubricate the brake pads?
No. Oil and grease reduce friction and can make braking unsafe. Handle pads by their backing plates, keep the rotor clean and use only a suitable disc-brake cleaner when necessary.
When should I stop and get professional help?
Stop if you see hydraulic fluid, a damaged hose, a seized piston, a cracked or badly bent rotor, stripped mounting threads, or braking that remains weak after correct installation and alignment.
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